Go Back   Tiberius Arms Forums > Tiberius Arms Markers and Mods Discussion > Tiberius T9 Rifle
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation How to properly MULTICAM your rifle with DURACOAT.

INTRODUCTION

This is my 3rd take on the MULTICAM pattern (MC), the greatest, most complex camouflage pattern to this day to apply to guns. The beauty of MC is the fact that you can take the detail in it as far as your skill and time allows you to. This particular project took up 10 weeks of reverse engineering the pattern and 2 weeks to prep the pistol grips and shroud to desired look and finally, 6 weeks of airbrushing and masking. Averaging 6 hours of work a night. In here, you should find all the answers to pattern questions, masking and proper application of the greatest paint of all, the DURACOAT.

The process begun by googling around for a tile able profile of MC pattern. Once found, the image was tiled 9 times in Photoshop to produce the desired effect for tracing. Once finished, it was printed on 3 sheets of 11x17 that were than spliced together to create a 30 x 17 inch sheet. Repeated 4 times to accommodate for all color patterns, I begun the tracing process. You might ask why 4 times and not 7 as there is that many colours in the MC, it’s because some first 2 colors do not need stencilling and neither does the dark green that shades into yellow green, but we’ll get to that later.

After tracing out the patterns of Yellow Green, Dark Green, White, and Dark blotches, I’ve cut up all the 30x17 sheets back to 10x17 size and scanned them into jpegs. Imported to Photoshop once again, I’ve deleted all the colors but the ones I traced. This process resulted in a file that had nothing but blotches on it, which were imported to Illustrator and vectorized. Now, one step closer to get the proper stencils I had to fix all the blotches again, as they came out all with one or two sharp corners on them. After 3 weeks of staring at the screen reverse engineering the original pattern, I was ready to compile all my shapes to a sheet 50x50 inches that would be kiss cut by a local print shop. The choice of stencil material was Low-Tac Self-Adhesive Milar due to my very positive experience using it on less important projects. This material has proven itself to me as very pliable (stretchy) and leaving NO glue residue after being sprayed with solvent based paint. That is VERY, VERY important.






SUPPLY LIST:

1. Place to do it all at.

2. Spray booth. (I designed and built my own down draft booth, sucking at 250 cfm @ ¼” static pressure across the 18x28 inches of surface. I can work without wearing a mask as all the overspray air is filtered from particles and pumped directly outside.)

3. DURACOAT (of course)

4. DURAFILL

5. DURAFLEX – this additive is mixed in to all paint applied to plastic parts)

6. DURACLEAR (SL) – this self lubricating version of the FLAT clear coat had incredible oil repellancy properties. One could almost say that if you get shot in your gun, you can just ‘shake’ the paint off of it. Simply gives Teflon like properties.

7. Compressor

8. Airbrush – I used BADGER $70.00 item at Michael’s Craft Store

9. Airbrush extention hose

10. Glass cup that you will never use for drinking again to clean your airbrush & stuff

11. TRU-STRIP – product that I recommend very highly to use for degreasing, and a final ‘once over’ before you start airbrushing.

12. Sandpapers & sanding blocks: Various grits, basically from 200 to 2000 grit is what I had in my disposal and used them all numerous times

13. Microfibre cloths (at least a dozen)

14. SCOTCH 2” wide BLUE masking tape x 2 rolls

15. Good, sharp, non-stick scissors

16. Needle tweezers

17. Nose hook tweezers

18. Exacto knife & spare blades

19. Box cutter

20. Paper towels & Cotton Swabs

21. Surgical gloves and heavy duty rubber gloves.

22. Tooth brushes

23. Large paper clips

24. Picture frame wire

25. Music & Beer (lots of it)

DONE!!


Now, you should be ready to undertake the process, so let’s get started.
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!

Last edited by sargent_oakley : 06-20-2010 at 05:46 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation Masking (Part 1)

MASKING PROCESS:

Tools needed:


1. SCOTCH masking tape BLUE. (green is not tacky enough)
2. Round needle nose pliers (for ease of bending paper clips)
3. Scissors
4. Precision Tweezers(I used Tweezer Bee brand with anti sticker coating)
5. Nose Hook Tweezers
6. Exacto knife
7. Paper Towel
8. Patience (lot of it)



BARREL:

1. Insert 2 stripes of masking tape into the barrel press them against the inside walls of the barrel





2. Insert rolled up paper towel. That will prevent over spray from getting inside the barrel









3. Cut off excess





4. Repeat on other end with consideration for the attachment point to hang it for drying. (I used large paper clips bent to a hook shape)



DONE!!
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!

Last edited by sargent_oakley : 06-20-2010 at 05:29 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation Masking (part 2)

GUN BODY:

1. Mask off the inside of the Gun Body using same method as to do the barrel.

2. Cut a ¼ inch strip of tape long enough, and stick it all around the cut out of the “trigger slot” and then trim with exacto as shown here:



3. Use ½ inch strips of tape by about ¾ inch long or so (adjust length for tight fit!) and roll them to a tube shapes and insert into the screw holes as shown:



4. For screw holes on top of the gun body and at the back where the engine bolt and firing assembly attaches (the back piece) cut up cotton swabs and roll a tape on them in same fashion as in step 3. Adjust to fit! You will regret it later if you don’t, trust me.



TRIGGER ASSEMBLY/REGULATOR:

1. Mask off the sides and trim with exacto:
2. Mask off the front starting at the back lip of the coming towards the trigger pins then pinch together.





3. Attach hang point for drying

DONE!!
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!

Last edited by sargent_oakley : 06-20-2010 at 05:30 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation Masking (Part 3)

MASKING OFF THE SCOPE OPTICS

1. Cut 1” strips of tape about 2” long and stick them directly onto the lens as shown:





Don’t worry the tape will NOT damage the lens, and whatever glue residue stays there you can remove it with regular lens cleaner, once you’re done clear coat; a while from now.

2. Trim excess tape:



3. Repeat for other side:



4. Masking off the sun shade tube is the same process as the barrel masking.



5. Cut thin strips of milar and mask off the red/green indicators on the scope. (this is advanced and unnecessary, you can go with just a strip all around, I just took it to another level)






DONE!!
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!

Last edited by sargent_oakley : 06-20-2010 at 06:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation DuraFill

DURAFill

Tools needed:


1. Airbrush & all that’s needed (obviously)
2. 600 grit sand paper
3. Double sided carpet tape (SCOTCH preferred)
4. 200 grit sanding sponge block
5. Exacto knife
6. Tooth brush
7. Microfiber cloth

PISTOL GRIP:

I’ve used a TAMYA model filler to seal the casting lines before applying Durafill on it. Also sanded down the grip to get the smooth effect where the fingers wrap around and took out the TAC logo so, it won’t bother the palm of the hand and sanded off the warnings to give it a smooth look over all. Also I’ve drilled in the holes on the sides to view the ammo inside the mag.
Mix Durafill for at least 5 minutes so all of the sediment gets agitated properly. When spraying, for longer periods of time shake the content as it will start to settle. Degrease before spraying Durafill! The most important step, if you have any grease on the surface, it will result in bubbling up and chipping off later on once you start applying Duracoat.

1. View port detail:



2. Back of the grip









3. Bottom of the grip:



DONE!!
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!

Last edited by sargent_oakley : 06-20-2010 at 07:39 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation DuraFill Continued

SHROUD:

1. Before applying Durafill. Notice the Tamaya fill on the molding imperfections.


2. After the first coat of Durafill (still can be seen wet in places on this picture), lightly sand it all down and check for revealed imperfections.



3. Sanding process:

3.1. Cut up 1 ½ inch strips of the 600 grit sand paper



3.2. Apply double sided tape. It will help the sand paper to stick to your fingers as you sand so you don’t have to pinch it and hold it all messed up with sharp edges that scratch what you just re-surfaced.



3.3. Cut the strip to squares



3.4. Sand away!



Notice how beautifully the carped tape works sticking the sand paper to fingers.

3.5. Use tooth brush to clean up all the dust, also compressed air helps too.



4. Second coat needs to be sanded as well because it will leave you with very, very rough surface to paint.

5. Finished product:



DONE!!
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation Base Coat (Biege)

BASE COAT:

1. First coat should be applied very lightly, you should still be able to see the gray color of Durafill underneath.







2. No need, but I decided to paint the inside of the pistol grip.



3. Second coat should cover completely.





Hang to dry.









DONE!!
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation Engine to Receiver

The very first thing you need to do is attach the engine to gunbody.

For this process you will need following tools:

1. Scissors
2. Cotton swabs
3. Box cutter
4. Masking tape (SCOTCH-blue, but that will goes without saying)



HOW TO:

1. Stick a ¾ inch wide strip of tape along the length of the swab





2. Cut off the cotton heads



3. Screw them into the screw holes



4. Stick a bit more tape on the ends to make them thick enough to ‘tight fit’ over the engine body.



5. Done, you’re ready to spray.



DONE!!
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation Base Coat Shades (Medium Brown)

BASE COAT SHADES:

1. Begin airbrushing with individual pieces of the gun and apply the shading VERY LIGHTLY. In multiple coats to achieve desired shading.



2. Keep in mind the ‘fluidity’ of the pattern and give it a good thought how you are going to lay it out on the gun as a whole. As shown on these pictures keep putting the gun together as you go along to preserve the fluid look.





3. Don’t overdo it, you have 5 more colors coming over top of it all at this point.











DONE!!
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-20-2010
sargent_oakley's Avatar
sargent_oakley sargent_oakley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
Posts: 179
  
Exclamation Yellow Green

YELOW GREEN application is a bit tricky, you have to keep in mind where it appears on the pattern. 75% of this particular color is between the blends of BIEGE (base coat) and MEDIUM BROWN (base coat shades) and the rest appears on the fully shaded MEDIUM BROWN spots. The process at this point is very straight forward. Very, very stencils and mask intensive. You should be getting used to being very throughout with masking off unpainted areas. It will catch up to you if you slack this important step. At this point, I’d suggest to set a standard of how meticulous are you going to be with your stencil work.

1. Mask off EVERYTHING you do not wish to have painted in this color. If you don’t DURACOAT is a very dedicated paint and it will find a way to the parts you lack to mask off. Either by overspray or by you touching it with paint on your gloves.









2. Get rid of all the bubbles along the edges.





3. Apply paint





4. Peel off stencils and review your work.





5. Any peeling at this point can be fixed with 4 more colors that you have left to do.
__________________
WHO SAID WHAT TO WHO?!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.